North, on Greece's substantial mainland, the Meteora monasteries, a World Heritage site in the province of Thessaly, are breathtaking, situated on top of huge pinnacles of smooth rock(and famously featured in the James Bond film 'For your eyes only'). Providing sanctuary for monks during the Byzantium wars, access to them is by steps hewn into the rocks and windlasses are used only for hauling up provisions. The region of Zagoria, further north, is dotted with inaccessible mountain villages rich in preserved Turkish culture. Aside from the spectacular mountainous scenery of this remote area, with its abundant wildlife, the villages are a picturesque collection of fairytale-like winding cobbled and stepped streets, largely abandoned. Mount Olympus, Greece's tallest, (2917m) is nearby. The closest islands to Athens are the Saronic Gulf islands, with Salamis now virtually a suburb of the capital. Aegina, Hydra, Spetses and Poros are all surprisingly varied in architecture and terrain, but they all receive an inordinate number of tourists and are expensive. Hydra, once the rendezvous of artists, writers and beautiful people, is now overrun with holiday-makers but manages to retain an air of superiority and grandeur. Also close to the mainland, further North, are the Sporades, an archipelago comprising of Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos and Skyros, but they are all heavily touristed and expensive. Skiathos does however have exquisite beaches and a busy nightlife

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