Greece

Once the centre of civilisation, 2500 years ago, Greece is now the centre of island tourism in the Mediterranean. Sprinkled with impressive ancient archaeological sites, blessed with sun and superb beaches and offering very welcoming Greek hospitality and character, this Aegean destination is surprisingly good value, and has been a popular tourist destination among Europeans for decades.

From the mad traffic of Athens to the sleepy southern Ionian Islands, or the impressiveness of the Acropolis to the sophisticated nightlife of Mykonos, there are many distinctive faces to Greece.

Athens

There’s no escaping the gobsmacking examples of antiquity in Athens, and its worth spending a day or two there en-route the islands, for despite the modern city’s charmless appearance, its raucous street vendors and colourful markets add to the city’s bustling character.

One of the most important archaeological sites in the whole of the Mediterranean, the elevated Acropolis stands sentinel over Athens and is visible from almost everywhere in the city. Construction was initiated by Pericles in 510 BC as a showcase of lavishly coloured and gilded buildings and gargantuan marble statues, intended as a tribute to the Gods. The stout summit is entered through the architecturally brilliant Propylaia gate, which formed the towering entrance to the Acropolis in ancient times. Crowning the hilltop is the recently restored Parthenon, the most recognisable historic icon seen today in Greece with its perfectly symmetrical multiple Doric columns. One of its original functions was to house the giant statue of Athena, Goddess of Love, after whom Athens is named. Unsurpassed in its grace and harmony is the adjacent Erechtheion, immediately recognisable for its much-photographed Caryatids, the six maidens who take the place of columns. It is here too that the Elgin marbles where pilfered by British antiquarians a century ago. The Ancient Theatre of Dionysos, where every Athenian citizen took their turn in the chorus of Greek tragedies, is on the southern slope of the Acropolis. Views of the city from the Acropolis are rewarding and immediately below its North face is the old village of Plaka, with its narrow labyrinthine streets. Today its full of souvenir and craft vendors while night-time sees it transformed into a ouzo guzzling, plate-smashing venue. There are also many conveniently located budget hotels here. Adjacent to the Plaka is the ancient Agora (marketplace) which formed the centre of social and civic life in ancient Athens.

Fifteen minutes walk from the Acropolis is Hadrian’s Roman Arch, the lovely, oft overlooked monument of Lysikrates (dated 335bc) and the few remains of enormous Zeus’ Temple. Further along is one of Athens’ most famous landmarks, the Panathenaic Stadium, used for the original Olympics in 1896.

Other attractions include the National Archaeological Museum, which houses magnificent gold artefacts from Mycenae and spectacular Minoan frescoes from Santorini (Thira), among other exquisite objects and antiquities; and the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and ancient Greek art, with a collection of the elegant marble figurines.

Within easy reach by car is the Peloponnese on Greece's southern peninsula, rich in history and scenically diverse. Packed into its northeastern corner are the ancient sites of Epidaurus, Corinth and Mycenae, as well as the ghostly city of Mystras perched on the the slopes of Mt Taygetos. If you’re tired of ancient history, Mani is a region of bleak mountains and barren landscapes.


Northern Greece

North, on Greece’s substantial mainland, the Meteora monasteries, a World Heritage site in the province of Thessaly, are breathtaking, situated on top of huge pinnacles of smooth rock(and famously featured in the James Bond film ‘For your eyes only’). Providing sanctuary for monks during the Byzantium wars, access to them is by steps hewn into the rocks and windlasses are used only for hauling up provisions.

The region of Zagoria, further north, is dotted with inaccessible mountain villages rich in preserved Turkish culture. Aside from the spectacular mountainous scenery of this remote area, with its abundant wildlife, the villages are a picturesque collection of fairytale-like winding cobbled and stepped streets, largely abandoned. Mount Olympus, Greece’s tallest, (2917m) is nearby.

The closest islands to Athens are the Saronic Gulf islands, with Salamis now virtually a suburb of the capital. Aegina, Hydra, Spetses and Poros are all surprisingly varied in architecture and terrain, but they all receive an inordinate number of tourists and are expensive. Hydra, once the rendezvous of artists, writers and beautiful people, is now overrun with holiday-makers but manages to retain an air of superiority and grandeur.

Also close to the mainland, further North, are the Sporades, an archipelago comprising of Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos and Skyros, but they are all heavily touristed and expensive. Skiathos does however have exquisite beaches and a busy nightlife.


Cyclades

A five hour ferry ride from Athens are the popular, abundant and picture-postcard Cycladic islands, epitomising the Greek islands atmosphere and image. Dazzling white buildings are offset by bright-blue church domes, while golden beaches meet an aquamarine sea, and they present good value for sun-seeking, relaxing-orientated visitors. Santorini, Paros Mykonos, Ios are more touristy, and have vigorously embraced the tourist industry; others, such as Andros, Kea, Serifos and Sikinos, are visited infrequently by foreigners but are favourites with holiday-makers from Athens.

If you want to be seen, Mykonos, is glitzy and more expensive, with its sophisticated nightlife, superb beaches and chic boutiques. It is also the undisputed gay capital of Greece. The smaller Ios, is equally lively and attracts a more youthful, budget-minded party crowd who are too busy with the nightlife to notice the very average beaches, somewhat remote from the elevated settlements.

Paros offers something for everyone, and is conveniently a hub for the ferries. Across the island are quaint villages, good uncrowded beaches, cheap accommodation and delicious food.

Santorini (also known as Thira) is regarded by many as the most spectacular of the Greek islands, not because of its beaches but the awe-inspiring sea-filled caldera, a vestige of what was probably the world's largest volcanic eruption, ever. The result is sheer cliffs and spectacular vistas sweeping a huge arch along its Western coast. The volcanic legacy has left black-sand beaches and the fascinating buried ancient city, excavated at Akritiri. These, together with charming remote rural villages perched on the cliffs edge, as well as hotsprings and a dormat volcano, makes it a popular tourist spot.

If you want to escape the tourist hordes, Sikinos, Anafi and the tiny islands to the east of Naxos offer some respite.


Crete

Greeces largest island was the centre of the Minoan culture, Europe's first advanced civilisation - which flourished from 2800 to 1450 BC. Today it receives a quarter of all of Greece’s visitors, which says something for its commercial atmosphere, yet it offers a thorough package if you’re looking for a mix of history, sun, entertainment, luxury and good scenery. Iraklio, the main city, is a modern, wealthy but somewhat charmless place, but the palace of Knossos nearby is the most magnificent of Crete's Minoan sites. The other large towns, Hania and Rethymno, are packed with beautiful Venetian buildings. Paleohora, has been a popular bohemian lay-about for backpackers ever since this quite fishing village welcomed hippies 40 years ago.

To escape this, head to the sleepy villages of the Lassithi plateau among the rugged mountainous interior.

Trekking along the 18km Samaria Gorge, on the Southwest coast, is also popular. Most of the resorts and guest houses are situated in fishing villages and towns on the twisted Northern coast and Crete enjoys the longest summer of all the islands in the Med.


Dodecanese Islands

Strung along the coast of western Turkey, the Dodecanese has seen their fair share of invasions and occupations over the millennia, adding an interesting history to this archipelago. Rhodes is the largest of the Dodecanese islands and its town is the largest inhabited medieval settlement in Europe. Its Avenue of the Knights is lined with magnificent medieval buildings, the most impressive of which is the Palace of the Grand Masters.

The imposing Acropolis of Lindos shares its rocky outcrop with a Crusader castle above winding streets with whitewashed, elaborately decorated houses.

Kos, Symi and Patmos are the most popular islands for their good beaches, convenience, entertainment and abundant tourist facilities, but the un-touristy islands of Lipsi and Tilos have fantastic beaches too, while the sleepy rural island life can be experienced on far-flung Kastellorizo and Kasos.
Ionian Islands

Remotely situated in the Ionian Sea between Italy and mainland Greece, the Ionian islands are never-the-less popular, easily accessed by ferry from Brindisi. Corfu (also known as Kerkyra) is the best known destination here, and has an east coast overrun by package tourists, but the best beaches are found on the West coast. It does however boast the loveliest landscape of all the islands with its shimmering olive groves, cypress trees and colourful wildflowers everywhere. The busiest resorts are immediately north of the busy but pleasant and historically interesting Corfu town. More remote and quieter villages are found further North, including Nisaki and Agni.

Ancient ruins are liberally sprinkled about the island, particularly on the Kanoni peninsula.

Paxi, 11kms south of Corfu, is largely free of tourists with only three significant settlements. Lefkada has some of the best natural scenery in the archapelago, and still has traces of ancient island life, but the main town has suffered a series of devastating earthquakes. Ithaki and Kefallonia suffered similar fates, and are now largely underdeveloped but charming none-the-less, with spectacular scenery and designated national parks. In fact many of these islands are more Italian in character. Zakynthos by contrast has embraced tourism with zeal, resulting in a mayhem of mopeds and jetskis, but a pleasant tourism destination if you seek sun, relaxation, good food and entertainment.

Kythira is the furthest flung of the lot and while open to tourists, presents an island as yet ‘undiscovered’.


Northeastern Aegean Islands

There are seven major islands in the northeastern group: Samos, Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Limnos, Samothraki and Thasos. Huge distances separate them and they are lush and humid with mountains skirted by pine, sycamore and oak-forested hills. Egg-shaped Samothraki has dramatic natural attributes, culminating in the mighty peak of Mt Fengari. They are less visited but cater well to tourism. Perhaps the difficulty presented in reaching them is the real appeal, they are certainly no less beautiful, with rugged coastline, charming interiors, good beaches, plentiful sun and few people.

Greece has long been a popular sun-seeking destination with its good value island accommodation, sumptuous Aegean food, chianti, distinctive Greek hospitality and atmosphere and abundant historic interest. From glitzy destinations to remote and sleepy islands, it offers plenty of convenient options for Mediterranean vacationers.


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